So, You've Decided to Get a Rat? Here are All the Basics You Need to Know!

Congratulations! You're starting a journey full of love and tiny adventures, but before you dive in full force, there are a few things you should know first. So, let's go over the basics of rat care!

(PSA Even if you've made a mistake or two with your furry friends' care, that doesn't mean you will encounter harsh judgment from me. We are all always learning, and look at you, here doing research because you care! I'm proud of you and so are your future or current whiskered babies.)

Companionship!

Rats are extremely social creatures and should be owned in pairs, AT MINIMUM!

A lone rat is often a miserable rat; in the wild they have very complex social groups and therefor have evolved to need certain care they can only receive from other rats. Besides simple loneliness, isolation can cause a rat's fur to become unkempt, and they may develop antisocial behavior even towards their owners as well as other rats.

You see rats groom constantly, both themselves and each other, and without this they can struggle to reach certain areas to keep groomed and become stressed. As I'm sure most of you know stress isn't good for anyone's health, but rats are social prey animals, and isolation may not simply drive them mad, but can actually weaken their immune system!

My suggestion? Get at least three rats if you're just starting out, it makes for a more interesting dynamic as well as allows for less of a chance that when one passes the other will be left all alone.

Cage Size, and Housing!

It is recommended in peer reviewed scientific studies and anecdotal rat blogs alike, that rats should have at least 2 feet cubed per rat, minimum (2ft x 2ft x 2ft). Just as important as space is the type of enclosure, you should never keep rats in an aquarium or a cage with a wired bottom. An enclosure should have the minimum prescribed space per rat, as well as an open barred design to allow for maximum air flow. Nothing will take a rat out faster than respiratory irritation! As for the wired bottom, their little paws are so sensitive guys, and standing on hard wire even if they have somewhere to rest between can cause "bumble foot" and stress fractures. As well as adequate floor space, you will want multiple levels as Fancy Rats are arboreal and love to climb! The cage I would suggest just starting out, though I will warn you it's pricey, is the Single Critter Nation. Perfect for up to 3 rats maximum, it offers a two-level habitat perfect for fuzzy little explorers to stretch their legs. Not only that it's easily expandable for when/if you want to expand your mischief!

Bedding and Substrate

Now, there is a ton of debate on this subject, but for my part I have looked at long term peer-reviewed scientific studies to form my opinions on bedding safety and preferences.

First and foremost! Avoid pine at all costs: not only can it be hard on their respiratory system, but it also contains toxins which can lead to damage of their internal organs, such as the liver. Even kiln-dried pine can cause these issues, so please, I encourage you to do your own research through scientific publications, as opposed to anecdotal home experiments.

So, if not pine, then what? Well personally, after much research I have settled on dust free paper bedding, or Aspen bedding, as the safest, most affordable options. However, if you can find a large supply, and can afford it, corncob bedding is technically the best, due both to its lack of particulates, and for ammonia control. However, as that is a decidedly less-affordable option, let's talk Aspen and Paper.

If you go the paper route, I highly recommend Carefresh brand bedding which, of the paper types, produces the least dust for certain, at least compared to other brands I've used and filtered. This brings me to my final point about paper bedding, which is that if you want to be extra-cautious with your paper bedding due to particulates, filtering out the dust through a large colander will help remove what little is left.

Aspen creates less dust, but the odor it can't absorb, relative to paper, can itself still cause sneezing in sensitive rats, so it's best to try each of these options to see which is the best fit for your companion.

Diet and Nutrition

At minimum, you want to feed a well-balanced lab block with 14%-16% protein content, such as Oxbow adult rat food. I personally use Oxbow as a base for a homemade mix of pellets, adding in dehydrated rat-safe vegetables, split peas, plain oats, a grain mix, vegetable-based pasta, and a good amount of parsley and/or dried greens for nutrients. You should also be supplementing with treats like cooked eggs, raw or plain roasted nuts or seeds, cooked plain meats, rat-safe vegetables, and the occasional yogi or sweet treat. Rats love variety; imagine if you had to eat the same thing every day for your whole life!

As for water, you will want at least two sources in your cage, I myself use Choco Nose water bottles, but some people opt for small dishes of water or even water-cycling cat bowls!

Enrichment and Clutter

Rats don't just love variety in their diet, but also in their enrichment and cage accessories! I recommend giving them several hammocks, chew toys, hides, as well as platforms and ropes to climb on to start. After that slowly add more as you find enrichment toys you like! Just remember to steer clear of toys made of softwoods like pine.

Free-Roaming and Handling

Now, rats may live in cages, but it is very important they have free-roam time daily, even just 10 minutes a day will help avoid boredom and destructive behaviors. Putting them in an enclosed room or simply covering your bed with towels and allowing them to roam there (always while supervised) is just a start; you will also want to add treat puzzle enrichment, as well as places to hide and climb while out. I would also say having a small box or cage of substrate they can return to to use the restroom will cut down on any cleanliness concerns.

When it comes to handling your new friend, taking things slow is key, as is maintaining calm, slow body language; sudden movements startle rats as they're naturally prey animals. Always offer your hand slowly and don't chase them around the cage, let them come to you. I also advise using a reward system by offering treats in exchange for contact. Once the rat seems more comfortable in their surroundings you can begin giving them liquid treats, on a spoon at first, so they learn not to bite but to lick, then transition to them licking the treats off you. Not only will this associate you with something yummy, but rats in the wild often offer portions of food to one another as a sign of friendship, so their little brains see this as a genuinely kind gesture. After they're comfortable with your hands in their cage you can begin to encourage them to climb onto you! Once they're on your hand start by very slowly lifting them just a few inches and see how they respond. If they seem curious and inquisitive or begin climbing you, you're in the clear to handle them. However, if they immediately jump off and scurry away you may have to slowly practice these suggestions and build a relationship over time. The truth is, like humans, rats have their own personalities and some simply aren't cuddle bugs.

Cleaning and Hygiene

Lots of people assume if you own rats your house will inevitably stink. But let me give you a good cleaning routine example, and I think you'll find there's no offensive smells.

So first of all, you should be spot cleaning daily. This means wiping down surfaces, toys, hides, and ramps with a damp cloth. I suggest using just plain warm water where you can but for particularly stubborn spots, I've found that a few drops of unscented dish soap and a scrub daddy can get the job done. Also, if there is a spot your rats favor to use the bathroom, scooping out just that area and replacing it can really help the smell and air quality.

Now, at least once a week you're going to want to do a full litter change and more thoroughly wipe down the cage and accessories. If any objects look extra crusty you can always soak them in hot water and vinegar before scrubbing them down and giving them a good rinse, so no strong odors remain.

In my opinion clean air is just as important for maintaining your rat's health as a clean enclosure. It is extremely easy for a rat's respiratory system to become inflamed from strong scents such as perfumes, air fresheners, smoke (yes even incense, vapes, and candles) and especially-heavily-scented cleaning products can strongly contribute to Upper Respiratory Infections.

Now, I get that keeping a completely scent-free home can be a challenge, and that is why I highly recommend an air purifier specifically designed for homes with pets. If you can dedicate one room or area for your animals to keep relatively scent-free, while running an air purifier to filter out what may waft in from other areas, I think you'll find a decrease in respiratory issues amongst your mischief.

Health and Life span Basics

So, one of the hardest parts of rat ownership is the early goodbyes. Even the best cared for rat is unlikely to live past 3 years of age. I know for some this can be such a heartbreak that they're completely turned off ownership. But I like to think that though they aren't there for our entire lives, we are there for theirs, and they love us and appreciate all we do more than they can say, but any long-term rat owner knows the signs. Whether through a little boggle just because you looked at them, bringing you part of a treat they love, or grooming you emphatically, rats demonstrate that they can love just as deeply as we do. So, in my personal opinion they are well worth any heartbreak just to experience their love and affection.

Yet another challenge of rat ownership is being able to tell when the sneaky little boogers aren't feeling well! You see, rats are prey animals, and as such they hide illness extremely well. So, daily or every other day, health checks are a must. It's very important to start these health checks at a young age so that the rats become accustomed to them as they are a very important part of rat ownership. But what are you even looking for?

• Sneezing or clicking while breathing

• Weight loss

• Lethargy

• Scabbing especially around the head and neck

• Lumps or bumps under the skin

• Excessive amounts of nasal discharge

• Any vaginal bleeding or discharge in females not caused by recent/impending birth

• Uncharacteristic or sudden aggression

• Head tilting or constant shaking

• Heavily salivating

• Change in movement or gait

• Favoring a limb or extremity

• Squealing when picked up, when that is not usual for the rat

• Fur loss

• Dramatic change in water or food intake

• Misalignment of the teeth or bleeding from the mouth

Should you notice any of the aforementioned signs, I definitely advise a trip to an exotic vet ASAP, as rats can go downhill very quickly, and by the time they're even showing symptoms it can be very serious. Now, in a pinch you can use an emergency veterinarian, but the problem is they often don't know how to treat small or exotic pets properly, and your dear friend may not get the care they deserve. So please have a specific vet in mind before even getting rats, for precisely these instances.

That's the basics! I may go more in-depth on each of these topics in the future, but for now if you have any specific questions or concerns, please don't be afraid to reach out. Now I will say that I, like all of us, am always learning, and new research is coming out all the time, so I will update this accordingly.

A Disclaimer:

Everything I have stated here is simply a compilation of my own research, personal experiences, and opinions. It should not be taken as a replacement for the opinion of a veterinary professional or degreed biologist. I'm just a half-baked rat lady on the internet trying her best to help. I'm certainly not infallible, but I am passionate and hopefully that counts for something!